Some time ago we made a visit to the least visited national park, Isle Royal. There are a few reasons we picked this location. The first was the opportunity to see an isolated island ecosystem which included a large population of moose and wolves. The moose population on this island is now about 300-400 and the wolves number somewhere around 30. The moose population was significantly higher. The second reason we went was because of the remoteness and the fact that we wanted to get out and not constantly be running into people. Isle Royal delivered on both of these and one more we weren’t really counting on. You can read books, trail maps, and research your heart out. One thing you cannot get from reading and research is the shear beauty of this island. But, the beauty comes at the cost of convenience.
First of all, it is a demonstration of commitment just to get to the island. We chose to travel to Copper Harbor, which is about the northernmost point in Michigan, and catch a ferry out to the island. The ferry ride alone is a 3-4hr cruise across Lake Superior, which is intimidating just to look at. Lake Superior is large, cold, and deep. You come to this sense of humility out on the lake when for hours you cannot see land. The day we departed was a cool July morning with mixed rain and fog. We should have realized this was probably the weather we would be seeing for most of the trip. We met several fellow campers, all with their own trek of the island planned. After the long trip out of the fog comes the view of the island we had all waited for. The surprise I had was what I had expected the island to look like. I was expecting sandy beach and trees, similar to the rest of Michigan. Isle Royal is not lower Michigan. It is very similar, in my mind, to the Pacific Northwest. Very rocky, big trees, and damp.
The ferry docks in Rock Harbor, which is the launching point for your trip. Rock Harbor also has a lodge, in the event the park visitors are not quite adventurous enough to go on an extended camping trip. There are several day hike opportunities on established trails which can be connected into a loop. You can still get exposed to the island’s beauty and wildlife without the roughing it. After a brief orientation, we head off on our route. The first day was pretty mild, from a difficulty standpoint, and wet. It rained steady all day. At our first campsite, we found a screened in lean two. These cannot be reserved, it is a first come first served basis. The building was great, but for a reason we had not accounted for. The bugs are oppressive. If you do not coat yourself in deet you will be eaten alive. The lean two mitigates alot of this, especially when you’re trying to eat in peace. In July, the flies and mosquitoes are tough.
We also had our first wilderness encounter with a friendly otter and a camp fox, who hung around to see if he could collect any snacks. He was definitely disappointed. Our trip was a large loop tour back to Rock Harbor over a six night itinerary. We explored the interior of the island, usually hiking 3-6 miles per day. Some of the trails were difficult, but, for the most part I would rate the overall difficulty as moderate. Once you get further along the trail you really are isolated and that was great. We would run into a few hikers, but, I think we saw more moose then people. A couple of them closer then most would like. When you are walking down a trail and you hear bull moose in the distance already sparring with their antlers, the rut comes early to Isle Royal, you get an appreciation for how powerful these animals really are. I was taking a break on a canoe portage one afternoon and heard a rustle. When I looked up there was a bull standing ten feet from me on the same portage. Apparently, he thought that was a good place to get into the lake too. I spoke to him, he stopped and proceeded to walk through an alder thicket I don’t think any human could walk through and walked into the lake to browse. His shoulders were over my head and his rack had to be six foot across. Yet he walked through the thicket like it was tall grass.
This wasn’t the only moose we saw. Just walking down the trails, you would come across moose browsing in a meadow or the trees. We saw calves and sows and all seemed content to allow us by without more then a glance. We did not see any wolves on our trip. We saw wolf signs, especially on the trails. They ar shy and elusive. It would have been a treat to see at least one. The Isle Royal wolves and moose are isolated on the island and have been studied extensively for years.
There are several inland lakes on Isle Royal and they don’t get very warm even in the summer. Lake Superior was a balmy 68 degrees. If you like to fish, bring your tackle, no fishing license is required on the inland lakes, only if you plan to fish Lake Superior. We had a great six days, even a few sunny ones. One thing we were all glad to see at the end of the trip was hot showers!! You really don’t appreciate hot water until you’ve been bathing in cold lakes for five to six days.
I know anyone who loves wilderness camping would love a visit to Isle Royal and encourage anyone to visit the park. I saw some of the most beautiful spots I think exist on that island. If you want more information on Isle Royal you can visit www.nps.gov/isra which is a direct link to the park. You can also click on the national parks link in the sidebar to find other great national parks.